Important Measurements and Compatibilty
Here you’ll find all the important information to check the compatibility and key measurements of your Madonna V3.2 and to select the right components such as seatpost, handlebar, stem, etc. You can go through the guide step by step or use the table of contents to jump directly to the sections that are relevant to you.
Chainlines
Yalla frames have a wider bottom bracket and are designed around a 56.5 mm chain line on SRAM drivetrains, like X01 DH, and 57.9 mm on Shimano drivetrains, like Saint.
Stem length and Bar rise
| Stem Length Options: | Bar Rise Options: |
| 42mm | 20mm |
| 50mm | 35mm |
Rolling chassis and Complete Bikes come with a choice of stem length, 42 mm or 50 mm, as well as a choice of bar rise, 20 mm or 35 mm, that allow you to adjust the fit and feel of your Madonna or Jibb.
The 42 mm stem will give you the option to make your cockpit shorter, both when stood and seated. It will make the steering feel a bit livelier but will take a touch of load off the front wheel. If you like to have a more dynamic and faster feeling to the steering, then the 42 mm stem will be the one to go for.
The 50 mm stem will give you the option to make the cockpit longer. It will put a touch more load on the front wheel naturally from your position, but will make the steering less lively. If you like to have a calmer and slightly slower feeling from the steering, then the 50 mm stem is the one for you.
Bar rise is also going to allow you to adjust the fit and feel of the bike. But it’s worth noting that the head tube lengths on the Madonna and Jibb were designed to give riders a good bar height range for aggressive riding without needing to have a tower of stem spacers.
The 20mm rise bars will give you a lower bar height both when seated and stood. If the trails you ride most are a bit flatter, then a lower bar height can help to keep some load on the front wheel. Also, if you like to tackle steeper and more technical climbs then a lower bar height is also going to help.
On the other hand, the 35mm rise bars will give you a naturally higher bar height, making your position on the bike more upright. If the trails you ride down most are steeper, then a higher bar is going to help keep you in a comfortable and attacking position. If you prefer a more upright position while pedaling, then a higher bar height is also going to help.
If you're unsure about the right choice, feel free to contact us directly. You can reach us by email at hello@raawmtb.com or by phone. We're here to help and we'll do our best to answer your questions.
Compatibility
When we talk about the fact that our bikes are designed for durability, we do not only mean their high quality of workmanship and robust construction, but also the fact that we rely - wherever possible - on common standards instead of proprietary in-house solutions. This ensures that all spare parts will still be available for many years to come and that you always have the widest possible selection of suitable components. Unfortunately we can't test all possible combinations, so we can only guarantee 100% compatibility with the components we offer - but in general there shouldn't be any problems with the vast majority of attachments.
Please find the full compatibility information for the RAAW Yalla!! V2 here.
Shocks
Shocks from many different manufacturers will fit the RAAW Yalla!! V2. However, we can not guarantee that all shocks with large and wide piggy-backs will fit, especially in medium size. When you have successfully assembled the shock, please check the free movement of the suspension by letting the air out completely or removing the spring
Forks
The Yalla!! V2 is designed around 29” forks with 200/ 203 mm of travel. We used a 602mm axle to crown measurement when designing the geometry, but with DH forks you have the option to make their axle to crown longer. This does affect the geometry, but not in a detrimental way and is something that we considered carefully when designing the bike.
While we have strived to check all the different crown and offset options, it could be the case that when a fork is mounted on the frame with no spacers between the headset and the upper crown, that at the extremes of the steering the crown could touch the frame. It’s always best practice to check things like this when assembling, and if this is the case, there are other alternatives when assembling the fork to avoid collisions without altering your bike setup.
Chain Guides
When assembling a chain guide for the first time, it will take a bit longer and need a little more patience to find the right combination of spacers, orientation and position of guide and bash guards. Generally we’ve found that you will need some spacers between the chain guide back plate and the frame, but the amount will depend heavily on the cranks and chain ring that you are running.
We strongly advise against using chain guides with metal bash guards, as they can put excessive force on the ISCG tabs, potentially damaging the frame.
Ochain
The Yalla!! V2 is compatible with the Ochain active spider. Much like chain guides, it will take longer and require extra patience to find the correct number of spacers between the chain guide backplate and the frame as well as between the Ochain and the chain ring. The bolts holding the chain guide to the frame are obscured when the Ochain is mounted, so it will mean that the cranks have to come off a few times before you find the right setup. But once you do, it’s done for a long time.
When assembling, pay attention that the chain guide back plate and bolts that mount the chain guide to the frame don’t hit the back of the Ochain.
Generally we’ve found that you will need at least 3mm spacers between the chain ring and the Ochain to then give enough offset to the chainring to need less spacers between the chain guide and the frame. But this will depend on the setup of cranks, chain ring and chain guide that you are running.
All internal adjustment options on the Ochain, from 4 degrees to 12 degrees, will work with the Yalla!! V2.