Getting Started: Unpacking, Bike Build and Setup

Your RAAW is on its way to you – or maybe it’s already there. What now? In this article, you’ll find all the essential information to get started effortlessly with your new dream bike. It serves as a complement to the printed Owner’s Book that you received along with your frame. Whether you’re building your first bike or are already a seasoned pro, we’ll guide you step-by-step to ensure that your bike project is a complete success.

If you ever find yourself stuck or unsure about anything, don’t hesitate to reach out to our support team – we’re always happy to help!

1. Component Selection and Compatibility
2. Package Contents and Unboxing
3. Bike Assembly
   1. Required Tools
   2. Recommended Assembly Sequence
   3. Correct Torque Settings
   4. Brake Mounts
   5. Cable Routing
4. After Assembly
   1. Saddle Height Adjustment
   2. Cockpit Setup
   3. Tire Pressure
   4. Suspension Setup
5. Before You Hit the Trails
6. Make It Yours - The Toolbox Concept
7. Have Fun

Component Selection and Compatibility

Currently, we offer our frames either as a Frame Kit or as a Rolling Chassis. That means you’re responsible for selecting and purchasing the remaining components. You’ll find all the necessary measurements, standards, and technical details in the Owner’s Book that comes with your frame, or on the product page of the specific model (Jibb V2 | Madonna V3 | Yalla! | Ältere Modelle).

Please also consider the manufacturer’s specifications for the intended use of the components. Not every part that technically fits is suitable for the same kind of riding as our frames.

It’s possible that some components, despite having the correct dimensions, may not fit perfectly. For example, size S frames can sometimes have clearance issues with shocks that have large external reservoirs. To avoid these surprises, we maintain a list of known incompatibilities for each model, especially for shocks. Before purchasing components, we recommend taking a quick look at this list. Of course, all frame-size combinations that can be directly configured in our online shop are compatible.

Compatibility Information: Madonna V2 / V2.2 and Jibb | Jibb V2 | Madonna V3 | Yalla!

By the way, if you’re looking for inspiration on how to build your RAAW, check out our growing collection of community builds on this page. In our RAAW of the Month series, we regularly feature particularly well-executed builds in detail. Have fun exploring!

Package Contents and Unboxing

Your RAAW frame will arrive carefully packed. Inside the package, you’ll find all the essential accessories that come with the frame—such as the Owner’s Book, plenty of zip ties for cable management, and all the hardware needed for shock mounting. You can check the complete contents of your frame on the respective product page. If you configured a headset, we’ve already installed it for you, along with the seat clamp and rear axle. For Rolling Chassis orders, the components will be packed together with the frame, while the wheels are shipped separately in a different box.

Important: You’ll find your invoice attached to the package (for orders outside the EU: inside the package). Keep it in a safe place, as you’ll need it for warranty claims or our Crash Replacement Program.

The packaging material is designed to be easy to remove. Use small side cutters to remove the zip ties and a pair of scissors for the tape—using a box cutter could scratch the frame.

We recommend using a bike stand. If you have your seat post ready, you can clamp the frame by the seat post and hang it directly onto the stand as you unpack it.

Bike Assembly

Once you have all your components, the fun can begin! In this video, we walk you through all the steps in our recommended order, using the Madonna V3 as an example. The process is essentially the same for the Jibb and Yalla! models.

You can find additional details on some of the points covered in the video below: Required Tools | Recommended Assembly Order | Correct Torque Settings | Brake Mounts | Cable Routing.

Required Tools

To work on the frame, you’ll need:

• Allen key set
• Bottom bracket tool
• Torque wrench
• Cable/housing cutter
• Assembly grease
• Medium-strength thread locker
• Zip ties (included in the package)

Depending on your choice of components, you might need additional tools like a cassette tool, a brake bleeding kit, or other manufacturer-specific specialty tools.

Recommended Assembly Sequence

Getting the order right makes the build a breeze and helps ensure clean cable routing. Here’s how to do it step-by-step:

1. Prepare the Seat Post and secure it in the bike stand.
2. Unpack the Frame and attach it to the stand.
3. Install the Headset and Bottom Bracket. If you configured a headset during your order, we’ve already pressed it in for you.
4. Install the Fork.
5. Install the Rear Brake and Derailleur.
6. Install the Shifter Cable and Chainstay Protector (see recommended routing options below).
7. Install the Rear Brake Hose, including checking the hose length on the rear triangle.
8. Cable Routing on the Down Tube (see recommended routing options below)—we recommend routing cables from back to front.
9. Bottle Cage.
10. Front Brake.
11. Cockpit.
12. Shock.
13. Crankset.
14. Rear Wheel.
15. Adjust the Rear Brake and Derailleur.
16. Cut and Install the Chain.
17. Front Wheel.
18. Install the Front Brake and Bleed the System.
19. Pedals.

Following this sequence will save time and help keep the cables neatly organized throughout the build.

Correct Torque Settings

All bolts on the frame must be tightened to the specified torque to prevent damage to the components. The recommended torque values can be found in the graphic below. Be careful not to overtighten or undertighten the bolts.

For the frame’s pivot bolts, apply a small amount of grease to the contact surfaces of the bolt heads and a drop of medium-strength thread locker on the threads. The brake mount bolts should not be greased; instead, thread locker is crucial here. We’ve already applied this at the factory, but make sure to check all pivots for the correct torque settings before your first ride.

For cable routing bolts, we recommend skipping the thread locker and using only grease.

[1] Main Axle: 50 Nm [2] Frame Pivot Bolts: 12 Nm [3] Brake Mount Bolts: 12 Nm [4] Dropout Bolts: 5 Nm [5] Cable Guides: 3 Nm [6] Seat Post Clamp: 5 Nm [7] Rear Wheel Axle: 15 Nm [8] Lower Shock Mount Bolts: 12 Nm

Also, make sure to follow the specified torque settings for the components you’ve installed. You can usually find this information in the respective user manuals.

Brake Mounts

All of our frames come equipped with a pre-installed brake mount, set up for the middle chainstay length. For the Yalla! and older models, the brake mount is designed for 203mm rotors. The Madonna V3 and Jibb V2, however, come with a 200mm brake mount, which can be extended to 203mm using two 1.5mm spacers. If you want to use larger or smaller rotors or prefer a different chainstay length, you’ll need the appropriate adapter. You can order them here.

Cable Routing

All RAAW frames feature external cable routing to make the installation and maintenance of brakes, dropper posts, and derailleurs as straightforward as possible. To avoid damage from incorrectly routed cables and to keep your setup clean, be sure to follow the routing guidelines in the diagrams below, depending on your configuration. Also, make sure that the cables are not twisted during installation to prevent damage and to avoid any rubbing on the frame. This will ensure that your cables remain well-protected and function optimally.

Red: Brake Hose | Yellow: Gear Cable | White: Dropper Cable

Red: Brake Hose | Yellow: Gear Cable | White: Dropper Cable

(image 1) Setup: Setup: Right-hand rear brake, mechanical gears and mechanical dropper post.

(image 2) Setup: Left-hand rear brake, mechanical gears and mechanical dropper post.

(image 3) Setup: Right-hand rear brake, electronic shifting and mechanical dropper post.

(image 4) Setup: Left-hand rear brake, electronic shifting and mechanical dropper post.

(image 5) Setup: Right-hand rear brake, electronic shifting and dropper post.

(image 6) Setup: Left-hand rear brake, electronic shifting and dropper post.

The cable routing on the Yalla! is straightforward, as a maximum of two lines are needed: the brake hose on the left, and the derailleur cable on the right. Both cables run along the same side of the head tube—unless you run your rear brake lever on the left side of the handlebar. However, the layout on the down tube remains the same.

To ensure that the rear triangle can move freely throughout its travel, the brake hose should form a small loop after the last attachment point on the rear triangle. This prevents it from becoming too tight during suspension movement. We recommend routing the cables and hoses before installing the shock. This way, you can easily check if the rear triangle moves freely without putting any strain on the cables.

After Assembly

Once you’ve finished assembling all the components, it’s time to take the bike off the stand and make the final adjustments.

Saddle Height Adjustment

For the Jibb and Madonna, the saddle height should be set so that your legs remain slightly bent while pedaling and not overextended. While adjusting, make sure to loosen the cable guides so that the dropper post hose can move freely without being stretched or kinked. Ideally, position the saddle so that the front part is aligned horizontally.

Cockpit Setup

To feel comfortable on your bike, it’s crucial to adjust the cockpit to your personal preferences. Take your time to set the handlebar height, tilt, and brake lever angle to fit your needs. To adjust the handlebar angle, loosen the stem clamp bolts and rotate the bar as desired. A backward tilt generally offers more comfort for your hands, while a forward tilt promotes a more active riding position. When tightening the bolts, make sure to tighten them evenly in a cross pattern and adhere to the manufacturer’s torque specifications.

For the brake lever angle, a good starting point is to ensure that your arms and braking finger form a straight line when sitting on the bike. Again, don’t forget to check the torque settings!

Tire Pressure

The right tire pressure is a key factor for your bike’s performance. It’s influenced by various factors such as tire model, your weight, riding style, and the terrain you’re on. That’s why we’re not providing any universal pressure recommendations here. Instead, we encourage you to experiment with different pressures to find the setup that suits you best.

Suspension Setup

A properly tuned suspension is essential for getting the most out of your RAAW. A precise setup helps your bike handle the terrain more effectively, providing better traction and control. The quickest and easiest way to fine-tune your suspension is by using the setup guides we offer for all the shock models we support. The following guides are currently available:

Each guide provides specific tuning recommendations based on your rider weight and various suspension preferences.

If you’re using a different shock, here are some key explanations and tips for adjusting your setup.

• "SAG," or "negative travel," refers to the amount of shock travel that is compressed solely by the rider’s weight. As a starting point, we recommend 26% SAG for the Madonna V3 and Jibb V2. If you prefer a firmer setup, reduce it to 23%. For a softer ride, go up to 29%. For the Yalla!, we recommend a base SAG of 24%. For a firmer setup, aim for 21%, and for a softer feel, go up to 27%.
• The air pressure in the shock (or the spring rate in a coil shock) directly affects SAG. Higher pressure reduces SAG, while lower pressure increases it.
• The required air pressure (or spring rate) is influenced by several factors, such as the rider’s weight, gear, and the specific rear suspension design of the bike. The same rider might need different pressures or spring rates depending on the bike.
• Your riding style also plays a role: an aggressive riding style might require higher air pressure or a stiffer spring.

General Guidelines:

• More Air Pressure / Stiffer Spring: Less SAG, less travel used, more upright geometry, higher bottom bracket, and reduced risk of bottom-out.
• Less Air Pressure / Softer Spring: More SAG, more travel used, slacker geometry, lower bottom bracket, but higher risk of bottom-out.

In addition to air pressure or spring rate, compression and rebound damping are crucial settings for optimizing your suspension. Compression Damping controls the shock’s resistance when compressing. Rebound Damping adjusts the speed at which the shock returns to its original position after being compressed. This influences how the bike feels after hitting a bump or landing a jump. It affects how the bike handles impacts and absorbs bumps. If you’re racing or have a particularly aggressive and efficient riding style, you can fine-tune your bike’s behavior either by adjusting the air pressure or by using compression damping to achieve your ideal ride characteristics.

Before You Hit the Trails

Your RAAW is fully assembled and standing in front of you, and you can’t wait to tackle your favorite trail? We get it! But before you head out, it’s crucial to take some time to familiarize yourself with your new bike. Check that all bolts are tightened to the correct torque and get comfortable with the brakes and shifting. Start by taking a few laps around a parking lot and then try an easy trail. Better safe than sorry!

Before every ride, make sure to check the following:

• Both axles are securely tightened.
• Tires have the correct pressure.
• Wheels spin freely and without play.
• Brakes are working properly, and pads are still thick enough.
• There are no cracks, breaks, deformations, or other issues.
• All bolts are torqued correctly.

Only ride if none of these issues are present.

Make It Yours - The Toolbox Concept

All our bikes allow adjustments to chainstay length, bottom bracket height, suspension progression, and head angle—we call it our Toolbox Concept. If you want to take advantage of these options, you may need additional parts depending on the change you want to make. Ruben outlines the different possibilities, required parts, and suggested starting points in this article. In general, we recommend riding your bike in its standard geometry for a while before making any fine adjustments. This way, you can get a good feel for the bike and understand your preferences better.

Have Fun!

All that’s left is to wish you lots of fun and a great time getting to know your RAAW. Our support team is always here for you if you have any questions or issues. Don’t forget to sign up for our newsletter to take advantage of all the perks and offers as a RAAW Rider.